Zagreb Cathedral: A Glimpse Into Croatia's Rich History

The Zagreb Cathedral is the city's most iconic symbol. Its history is deeply intertwined with the city itself, tracing back to King Ladislaus of Hungary's founding of a monastery in 1093.

When Zagreb was established as an independent city with its bishopric, a new settlement called Kaptol emerged. This became one of the two medieval districts that eventually formed the modern-day city of Zagreb, now Croatia's largest and most populous city.

Although not all events from this period are documented in detail, significant records exist, such as the Felicijan Charter (Felicieva isprava) issued by Bishop Tihomir in 1134. This document mentions the founding bishop Ladislaus and the clerics under his authority. Following its establishment in 1093, the new Croatian bishopric, centered in Upper Pannonia Savia, expanded to encompass about a third of what is now modern-day Croatia.

The construction of a new cathedral during this early period is unlikely, as King Ladislaus had already designated an existing structure as the center of Christianity in Zagreb. However, a more ambitious cathedral project began after his death, likely around 1102. Its construction spanned over a century, and it was officially consecrated in 1217 during the reign of King Andrew II, as he departed for the Fifth Crusade. The Cathedral was dedicated to King Ladislaus, Saint Stephen, and the Blessed Virgin Mary.

In the 13th Century, Turkish invasions devastated many religious structures, including the Duomo of Santa Maria del Tarshill. During this tumultuous period, the medieval settlement of Gradec was granted free city status by Hungarian King Béla IV in recognition of its role in resisting the Turks. From this era, the sacristy remains as a surviving example of Romanesque transitional architecture.

Bishop Stephen II (Stjepan II) initiated the construction of a parish church dedicated to Santa Maria during the Turkish incursions. This Church, originally part of the cathedral complex, later became integrated with structures like the Archbishop's Palace (Sagada Predjestski) and the Bishop's Court (Biskupski Dvor). While much of the original Church has been lost or modified, it remains a cornerstone of Zagreb's rich ecclesiastical heritage.

The Restoration after the Uprising of the Tatars

The Zagreb Cathedral underwent significant reconstruction following the devastation caused by the Tatar invasion. Bishop Timotej spearheaded building a new cathedral, incorporating a central and two peripheral ambulatories, each equipped with altars and sacristies. This new structure replaced the ruins of an earlier cathedral dedicated to St. Stephen, King of Hungary, which had been heavily damaged. Remarkably, this era's sacred space and sacristy remain intact to this day.

The dedication of altars in the southern ambulatory in 1285 marked the completion of this section of the Cathedral. Notably, the Zagreb Cathedral is among the earliest Gothic structures in Croatia, and during the 13th Century, it was one of the largest and most significant buildings in the Hungarian Kingdom.
The restoration continued with the extension of the western wing and the addition of two bell towers. Gothic-style turrets were also constructed in the late 15th Century under the bishopric of Oswald Thuz.

The Church's Role During Turkish Attacks

During the Turkish invasions of Europe, Zagreb emerged as a critical border fortress. Defensive walls and bastions encircled the medieval settlements of Gradec and Kaptol. Bishop Oswald Thuz oversaw the construction of fortifications around the Cathedral, which continued until 1517 when the Zagreb Diocese administrator, Ostrogon Archbishop Toma Bakač, completed the project. In front of the Cathedral, Bakač erected a tower that bore his name.

Zagreb was first referred to as a capital city in 1557, reflecting its growing importance. However, this period was marked by devastation as well. The first significant disaster occurred in 1624 when lightning struck the Zagreb Cathedral, resulting in a fire that destroyed the famous altar built under Bishop Oswald in 1489. Another catastrophic fire in 1645 caused extensive damage, prompting further restoration efforts.

Restoration and Baroque Additions

The fires of the 17th Century led to extensive interior repairs, during which valuable Baroque elements were introduced. Sculptor Mihael Cusse contributed to Baroque altars and pulpits that remain preserved today. The Southern Bell Tower, a Renaissance-Baroque structure, was constructed during this period, serving as both a lookout point and an ossuary. Master carpenter Ivan Albertal carried out this work.
This era saw a Baroque revival throughout Zagreb. Wooden houses were replaced with grand palaces, monasteries, and churches, reflecting the city's increasing wealth and prestige. Trade fairs became common, further contributing to the city's economic and cultural growth.

Bishop Aleksandar Aleksejević continued the interior renovations, replacing one of Ackerman's altars with a large painting of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. His successor, Bishop Juraj Haulik, further enriched the Cathedral by installing the Gothic main altar and commissioning stained glass windows for the sanctuary. Completed in 1849, these windows are among Croatia's oldest examples of stained glass.

The Creation of the Zagreb Metropolitan Archbishopric

In 1850, during the mid-19th Century, Zagreb became a unified city with the administrative merger of Kaptol, Gradec, and surrounding settlements. Two years later, in 1852, a pivotal decision by the Croatian Parliament and Ban Josip Jelačić, ratified by Pope Pius IX, elevated Zagreb to the status of a metropolitan archdiocese.
As a metropolitan center, Zagreb became the ecclesiastical hub of the newly formed Croatian-Slavonian Province, overseeing the Zagreb Archdiocese and the dioceses of Bosna-Đakovo, Srijem, Križevci, and Senj-Modruš. On May 8, 1853, the papal ambassador Viale-Prela installed Zagreb's first Archbishop and Metropolitan in the Cathedral. Three years later, Cardinal Juraj Haulik was appointed to further solidify this new ecclesiastical hierarchy.

The Daring Restoration of the Zagreb Cathedral After the Earthquake

On November 9, 1880, at 7:33 a.m., a devastating earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale struck near Medvednica. The earthquake caused significant damage to the Zagreb Cathedral, destroying statues, collapsing parts of the clock tower, and creating a large gaping hole in the structure.

The restoration efforts, led by architects Friedrich Schmidt and Hermann Bollé, employed Neo-Gothic design principles. The reconstruction also modernized the surrounding Kaptol area, leading to the removal of the western section of the defensive wall, including the Bakač Tower, which opened up the square and allowed the Cathedral's iconic façade and towers, each reaching 105 meters in height, to become more prominent. By 1902, the Cathedral had assumed its now-familiar Neo-Gothic appearance. It had soaring twin spires, a high-pitched roof, a newly designed main altar, and replacement altars in the Franciscan monastery.

The earthquake acted as a catalyst for modernization throughout Zagreb, inspiring the construction of public buildings, the creation of parks and fountains, and the restoration of transportation infrastructure. However, the restoration of the Cathedral did not come without compromises. Economic constraints led to using lower-quality stone for the new bell towers and western façade, which deteriorated over time.

Challenges and Legacy in the 20th Century

Efforts to restore the Cathedral resumed in 1938 but were interrupted by the onset of communism. In the mid-20th Century, Alojzije Stepinac became a prominent figure in the history of the Zagreb Archdiocese. Pope Pius XI appointed him coadjutor bishop with succession rights on May 28, 1934. He was ordained in the Zagreb Cathedral on June 24, 1934.

After World War II, Stepinac faced persecution by the communist regime. He was subjected to a politically motivated trial and sentenced to 16 years of imprisonment and forced labor, with an additional five years of civil disenfranchisement. In December 1951, he was placed under house arrest in his family home in Krašić, where he remained until his death on February 10, 1960. Stepinac was buried in Zagreb Cathedral near the main altar. His tomb, made of copper and adorned with silver, features depictions of key moments from his life. Pope John Paul II later advanced Stepinac's canonization process during his papacy.

Modern Restorations and Upkeep

The Cathedral underwent significant restoration in the 20th Century. The restoration of the tower's spires was completed in 1968, and in 1974, thanks to generous donations from the Croatian diaspora, the roof's damaged iron plates were replaced with copper. This marked the culmination of decades of reconstruction, preserving the Zagreb Cathedral as one of Croatia's most important architectural and historical landmarks.

The Connection Between the Vatican and Zagreb

The relationship between the Vatican and Zagreb has been marked by mutual respect and shared history. When Pope John Paul II visited the Zagreb Cathedral during his first visit to Croatia in 1994 (following Croatia's declaration of independence in 1991), he proclaimed:

"Today I am here, a pilgrim of Christ's Gospel throughout your country, which for 900 years has been consecrated to the preaching of this deeply promising message of love and peace."

This statement underscored the profound historical ties between the Catholic Church and Croatia, particularly through the Zagreb Archdiocese.

Pope Benedict XVI visited Croatia on June 8, 2011, for the first National Day of Catholic Families. During his visit to the Zagreb Cathedral, he met with Croatian bishops, priests, religious sisters, and members of charitable institutions. A highlight of this visit was the presentation of a 700-year-old family tree, a symbolic gesture honoring Croatia's deep-rooted Catholic heritage and its connection to the universal Church.

The Earthquake of 2020 and Its Impact on the Cathedral

On Sunday, March 22, 2020, at 6:02 a.m., Zagreb was struck by a 5.5 magnitude earthquake, with the epicenter in Markuševac. The Zagreb Cathedral suffered significant damage during this natural disaster. The southern tower collapsed, and its silver-plated copper cross fell. Part of the roof collapsed onto scaffolding, further exacerbating the structural damage. Many stone elements fell into the interior courtyard between the Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace.

One theatrical moment came when a section of the northern spire was removed in a carefully orchestrated operation to prevent further damage. After weeks of preparation, this delicate and hazardous task was completed on Easter Sunday, April 17, 2020, under the leadership of Archbishop Josip Bozanić. This event marked a turning point in the ongoing effort to restore and preserve the Cathedral for future generations.

A Glimpse Inside the Zagreb Cathedral

The Zagreb Cathedral is home to invaluable historical artifacts, archives, and architectural treasures. The first diocesan archive, established in the Cathedral, preserves the most important documents of the Zagreb Diocese. Among them is the Felicijan Charter from 1134, the oldest surviving document between the Sava and Drava Rivers. This document mentions the establishment of the Zagreb Diocese just 40 years after its founding.
Another notable artifact in the Cathedral's collection is the papal bull Ubi primum placuit, which formalized Zagreb's status as an archbishopric. Additionally, the Riznica (Treasury) houses architectural records, including the oldest preserved floor plan of the Cathedral from 1792 and the designs for its 19th-century Neo-Gothic restoration by Hermann Bollé.
The Cathedral's collection also includes well-preserved textile and metal artifacts, many still in use during major religious and state events. These include visits by prominent figures such as Emperor Francis Joseph I, Pope John XXIII, Pope Paul VI, and Pope Benedict XVI.

The Symbolism of the Zagreb Cathedral

The treasures and artifacts within the Zagreb Cathedral reflect the inseparable bond between the Croatian people and their Catholic faith. Over 14 centuries of Christianity and nine centuries of the Zagreb church have shaped Croatia's cultural and spiritual identity, leaving an indelible mark on Europe's religious and historical landscape. Each artifact, document, and architectural detail within the Cathedral is a testament to Croatia's enduring role in developing European Christian heritage.

Interesting Facts About the Zagreb Cathedral

The Zagreb Cathedral is one of Croatia's most iconic landmarks, known for its rich history, architectural beauty, and cultural significance. Here are some fascinating facts about this extraordinary structure:

1. Tallest Building in Croatia

The Zagreb Cathedral is Croatia's tallest building, standing at an impressive 108.5 meters. Its twin spires dominate the city's skyline, making it one of the most recognizable landmarks in the country.

2. Las Vegas Connection: Casino Chandeliers

The Cathedral's lighting has an unusual origin—it comes from a casino in Las Vegas. The now-defunct Gold Coast Casino donated three chandeliers to the Cathedral, thanks to a Croatian immigrant, Stefan Stankić, who wanted to support his homeland. While some find the connection between a casino and a sacred place unusual, the chandeliers have been a temporary solution until a permanent lighting upgrade.
Father Josip Klarić, when asked about the unconventional lighting, remarked, "Things are neither good nor bad; it's simply what we have for now."

3. Bells and Towers

The Cathedral's twin bell towers house a total of eight bells:

  • The northern bell tower contains five bells.
  • The southern bell tower contains three bells.

The largest bell, the "Croatian Bell of Freedom," weighs a massive 9.5 tonnes and was cast in 1881. The bells ring to mark religious holidays, celebrations, funerals, and even to signal danger. Interestingly, the bells remained silent when Croatia joined the European Union in 2013, despite the ceremony being held near the Cathedral.

4. Earthquake of 1880

In 1880, a powerful earthquake devastated Zagreb and caused severe damage to the Cathedral. The ceiling collapsed, altars were shattered, and the bell towers were heavily damaged. The Cathedral was later restored using Neo-Gothic architectural designs by Hermann Bollé, giving it its iconic appearance.
The disaster led to a broader city modernization, with the reconstruction of the Cathedral symbolizing the resilience and determination of Zagreb's citizens.

5. Earthquake of 2020

History repeated on March 22, 2020, when a 5.5 magnitude earthquake struck Zagreb. The Cathedral was once again significantly damaged:

  • The southern tower collapsed, and its silver-plated copper cross fell.
  • Parts of the roof fell onto scaffolding, causing additional damage.
  • Pieces of the northern spire were removed to prevent further collapse.

This earthquake caused extensive damage to the old city center, and the restoration of the Cathedral remains a challenging, ongoing process.

6. The Oldest Document in Croatia

The Zagreb Cathedral is home to the Felicijan Charter, a historical document from 1134. This is the oldest surviving written record between the Sava and Drava Rivers, and it mentions the establishment of the Diocese of Zagreb.

7. A Centerpiece of Catholic Croatia

The Zagreb Cathedral has been central to Croatian Catholicism for centuries. Pope John Paul II visited in 1994, shortly after Croatia gained independence, and again in 1998. Pope Benedict XVI followed in 2011, highlighting its importance as a spiritual and cultural landmark.

8. A Survivor of Centuries

The Cathedral has endured wars, earthquakes, and political upheavals. Despite these challenges, it remains a symbol of Croatia's resilience and faith. Its Gothic architecture, intricate details, and historical significance continue to attract visitors from around the world.
The Zagreb Cathedral is more than a place of worship—it's a monument to Croatia's history, culture, and enduring spirit.

9. The Original Zagreb Cathedral Had Only One Bell Tower

Did you know that the original Zagreb Cathedral was built with only one bell tower? The second tower's construction resulted from an earthquake that struck during a mass service in the 19th Century.
Hermann Bollé, the architect responsible for the Cathedral's Neo-Gothic redesign, undertook the repairs and added the second tower, completing it in 1906. Bollé's work gave the Cathedral its striking symmetrical façade, which has since become one of the defining features of Zagreb's skyline.
Today, the two towers symbolize the city's resilience and are central to the Cathedral's beauty and architectural significance. But it's fascinating to imagine how the Cathedral might have looked if the earthquake had never occurred.

10. Inside the Cathedral is a Sculpture of the Devil

One of the more intriguing features of the Zagreb Cathedral is its sculpture of the devil, located on the left side of the main entrance. The artwork depicts a horned devil being vanquished by an angel in a dramatic and symbolic scene.
The precise meaning of this sculpture remains a mystery, but it is commonly interpreted as a representation of good triumphing over evil. Some also see it as an allegory for the struggle between Christianity and paganism, reflecting the historical challenges faced by the Church in the region.
Regardless of its interpretation, the devil sculpture is one of the Cathedral's most unique and eye-catching elements, drawing the attention of curious visitors and art enthusiasts alike.

Visit Zagreb Cathedral

Located in the heart of Croatia's capital city, the Zagreb Cathedral is much more than just a place of worship—it's a symbol of the city's spirit, a repository of centuries-old history, and an architectural masterpiece. Its towering spires and rich heritage make it one of the most beloved landmarks in Zagreb.
Whether you're drawn by its historical significance, breathtaking Gothic design, or quirky features like the devil sculpture, the Zagreb Cathedral is a must-visit destination. Make sure to include it on your itinerary when exploring this vibrant city—you won't be disappointed!
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